« Due to its size and armored strength, it was nicknamed “Dreadnought” by its six man crews. The KV-2 first saw service in the Winter War as a prototype, as did many other vehicles. However, they were too late to test their might against the more fortified Finnish defenses, as they had already been overrun. Despite this, they still destroyed some remaining enemy bunkers and AT guns. Finnish AT guns were ill-prepared for the KV-2’s strong armor, and even reportedly stopped firing after three non-penetrations. » -Tanks Encyclopedia
Good day everyone!
Today, I will show you how to paint a Soviet tank. This green scheme can even be used to do your U.S tanks during WW2!
- Vallejo: Dead flesh, Charred Brown, Black, Gloss Varnish. Brown and orange pigments
- Games Workshop: Catachan green, Leadbelcher
- Forgeworld: Dark Sand pigment
- Army painter: Desert yellow
- Ak interactive: Heavy chipping
- Large, standard & dry brushes
- A good ol’ CD \m/
- A pencil
- A knife
- Paint random patches of Charred Brown all over the tank. Don’t bother yourself in covering the whole model, leaving black patches will add realism to your chipping later.
2. Now take your Brown Iron Oxyde pigment and repeat the same operation with the large brush. You can also add patches of Brown pigment 🙂
3. Now you need to airbrush a layer of gloss varnish to protect the job done. As the Heavy Chipping products disolve the paint underneath it, the gloss varnish will add a protective layer that will act as a shield against the product, allowing your rusty effect to appear without being dissolved.
4. After the varnish dried, you can spray several layers of Heavy Chipping effect. The more you spray, the more your future layers of green will dissapear which will create a more rusty tank. I personnaly decided to spray two coats of Heavy chipping.
Leave it to dry for 15 minutes.
5. Time to spray some Catachan green! Mix it with your airbrush thinner on a 50/50 proportions. You can try at 40/60 if your airbrush has a large nozzle or if you use an non-gravity working airbrush. Avoid to let the brown appearing under your green. The latter must be nice and smooth.
6. Time for the highlights! Add drops of Dead Flesh to your Catachan green. I usually add 10 drops of Dead flesh for 4 drops of Catachan. If you want a flashier tank, add more Dead Flesh 🙂 Then add 5 drops of thinner for 10 drops of Dead Flesh 🙂 (I always let some catachan green in my pots so that I already have that one thinned down and only have to do the thinner proportions according to the Dead Flesh 🙂 )
Spray the mix on the areas that are supposed to be hit by the sun. For the flat areas such as the plates above the tracks, I only spray at the centre of them 🙂
7. Time for the shadows! Add 15 drops of Black to the previous mix. Do not use pure black or it will look a bit unrealistic As tanks are big miniatures that aren’t the easiest to read after they are painted, we have to cheat a bit on Nature and do unatural contrast for a more realistic effect (see the paradox here? :p)
Spray the mix on the lowest part of the turret, under the main gun, and on each side of each plate as you can see on the picture. I recommend you to look at all the pictures here under to visualise where you’ll spray your dark coat.
8. Let’s activate our AK product! Take a glass of clean water (or already used water if you want to do a shade at the same time), a dry brush and brush gently your miniature with water. No need to remove some water on a piece of fabric, you can use all the water you want. Depending on the amount of Heavy Chipping layers you sprayed, you will have more or less patches of rust. Do not hesitate on some raised areas that would suffer the most of rain and natural deterioration.
Here you can see the result with 2 layers of Heavy Chippin.
9. Now we will work on the tracks and metal areas. Start with a coat of black over what you’ll consider as being iron/steel and on your tracks.
10. Spray a coat of Gloss Varnish to protect the work you’ve done as we are gonna use pigments in the next stages!
11. Time to do the tracks! Take your Brown pigment and your Dark Sand. Start to brush Dark Sands on both tracks. Be generous! When you are finished with Dark Sand, you can brush your Brown pigment over it! Then, protect the whole with a coat of gloss varnish to fix your pigments on your miniature 🙂
12. Now we are going to do my favourite part! Take a pencil (I « borrowed » my gf’s one :p), your knife and scrub the nead with the knife to retrieve a grey powder (graphite). When you think you have enough of this powder, put it on your finger and pass it on all the metal areas, the cables, the tracks, the edges of the tank, the machine guns, and so on.
13. End your work with a coat of gloss varnish (airbrushed) and add some decals if you want 🙂
Tadaaaaaaaaaa your tank if finished Tovaritch! And ready for another battle! Za Rodina!
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